Project log: Arduino Uno + “reprap d1scount display”

The code is running on an Arduino Uno, wired up to the controller. This is a generic control board called the “RepRapDiscount Smart Controller” which can come in many different configurations, so ensure you know yours before doing anything.

To document how I have wired this up, here is a diagram. Obviously your mileage may vary. The display is a 4 lines x 20 chars running a generic HD44780 type controller, only available in 4-bit mode.

#include <Arduino.h>
#include <LiquidCrystal.h>

const int PIN_BUZZER = 9;

const int PIN_LCDDATA4 = 5;
const int PIN_LCDDATA5 = 4;
const int PIN_LCDDATA6 = 3;
const int PIN_LCDDATA7 = 2;
const int PIN_LCDE = 11;
const int PIN_LCDRS = 12;

// declare the LCD in parallel mode.

// the setup function runs once when you press reset or power the board
void setup()
  // initialize digital pin LED_BUILTIN as an output.
  // initialize buzzer as output.

  // initialize the LCD, number of columns and rows.
  lcd.begin(20, 4);
  lcd.print("hey whats up");

// the loop function runs over and over again forever
void loop()
  lcd.setCursor(1, 1);
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3D Print: Wooden Tower

Printed in Wood PLA filament.
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Project Build #2

previous entry

Mounting the Motors

Now to have a mount for the NEMA-17 motors. I’m not quite sure yet how the axle should be positioned, so I have it going over the center of the frame contour.

Sketching a way to mount NEMA-17 to my frame.

A Fork in the Road

During assembly I have found that I really should have a sturdier frame. So I put everything on hold to redesign the frame and print in the ASA filament I acquired, my favorite material. There is a possibility of some warping. I really hope that doesn’t happen.

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Project Build #1

The Frame

Since I am printing the frame, I decided to split it in two logical parts: the top and the bottom that screw in together using standard M3 screws.

The lower half.

A while later, I had the top part.

The upper half.

During initial testing I found that the 10×10 dimension for the tubes is too weak, I will have to redesign this to use 20×20 tubes. I also found that the printing material should not be PETG, because of the nature of that material. PETG has a tendency to flex, and I want the frame to be really stiff in order not to interfere with accuracy of the head. So I will be reworking the frame in ASA filament, which I have had good luck printing in the past.

next entry

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devd(8) Rule for Coldcard (mk3)

The following is in /usr/local/etc/devd/hardware_wallet.conf

# Coldcard MK3
notify 301 {
        match "system"          "USB";
        match "subsystem"       "DEVICE";
        match "vendor"          "0xd13e";
        match "product"         "0xcc10";
        match "type"            "ATTACH";
        action "/bin/chmod g=rw /dev/$cdev";
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